The Andaman Sea is the quiet side of Thailand. Out from the coast, hundreds of limestone islands rise straight from the water, and most of them have no one on them at all. The trick is the timing: leave at first light, and the lagoons are yours until the day boats arrive at ten.
We split the stay between two islands. The first for doing things, the second for doing nothing. On the first, a captain who has sailed these waters since boyhood takes you through the sea caves at low tide. On the second, the most demanding decision of the day is which of the two sun loungers to lie on.
Evenings are the point. The sun goes down behind the islands, the water turns from turquoise to copper, and dinner is served wherever you happen to be standing.
