Zermatt has refused the motor car for a century, and you feel it the moment you step off the train: the hush, the sleigh bells, the electric taxis no bigger than a golf cart gliding along the main street. Above it all, the Matterhorn, which the locals still speak of as if it were a difficult relative.
The village is busy in season, which is why we keep you just above it. A chalet on the slope towards Findeln, where the larches give way to snow and the first sun touches the summit before it touches anything else in the valley.
Ski if you like; we arrange a guide who has skied these pistes since he was four. Or don’t. Some of our guests never clip into a binding and still call it the best week of their winter.